travel: istanbul
Istambul - it is always noise, vibrant colors, scents, the taste of çiğ köfte, salty pistachios, honey-sweet milk chocolate, and rich, tangy black coffee. I first visited Istanbul when I was sixteen. I flew in convinced I probably wouldn’t like it. And I was incredibly wrong. It’s one of the “Eternal Towers” — Paris, Rome, Vienna, Stockholm, Amsterdam, Berlin... You could live in them your whole life and still never discover all their beautiful corners. Every time you step out the door, you can be sure you’ll enjoy the city and uncover new hidden spots that will feel like they belong to you alone.
experience
Modern Art Museum
Full of air, water, and art
This museum reflects one of Istanbul’s defining traits — its contrasts. The curators have brought together local artists under one roof, each creating something uniquely their own. Expressionist works, conceptual abstractions, art-house videos with subtitles, photographs from the 1950s, and rooms entwined with red thread.
Adalar island
a nature reserve with horses, views
and bike rides
From the Kabataş pier, you can take a ferry to the Princes’ Islands — Adalar. For me, it was a pause from the city noise: hours of cycling, eating fresh fish, watching horses run, and swimming. “What is my life?” )
archeology museum
A collection of ancient Troy, Greek and Roman sculptures — and coffee next to a Roman bath built in the 3rd century BCE.
Ancient Troy, brought to ruin in Homer’s Iliad by the trick of the Trojan horse, was located in what is now modern-day Turkey. The rich legacy of that time has been carefully preserved and displayed in the museum. I get chills when I see goblets or cups from that era — their rims once touched the lips of people in 3000 BCE, and now, in 2025, I’m the one gazing at them.
drink & eat
Çiğ köfte
SPELLING: chee kuf-tay - THE MOST UNderRATED AND DELICIOUS MEAL EVER
Every time, I obsessively rush from the airport to the nearest spot where it’s made. Çiğ köfte — a mixture of spices and bulgur, kneaded for about an hour. You can only find it in non-touristy neighborhoods. A leaf of iceberg lettuce, fresh cilantro, and a piece of çiğ köfte drizzled with lemon juice and pomegranate molasses. Mmm...
sweets holy sweets
and strong coffee, of course
I don’t usually like overly sweet, honeyed flavors — but in Istanbul, that’s the exception. Pistachio baklava or coconut lokum paired with the bitterness of black coffee is simply delightful. You can buy them anywhere: in chains like Koska and Hafiz Mustafa, or in small, authentic local shops.
TOAST+
#vegan-friedndly best toasts in town, relaxing vibes and great coffee
A cute, cozy little café where you can enjoy delicious toasts and a cup of coffee. There are plenty of options for vegans.
to shop
patika kitabevi
An authentic bookstore filled with rare editions and Taschen art books on everything imaginable.
Tucked away on the first floor of a shopping mall, this little bookshop is packed with second-hand treasures and beautifully curated gift editions. I found Newton’s photo album Berlin, Berlin.
Gallery Rumi
Aesthetic ceramics and art
On the way to the Museum of Modern Art, there’s a street lined with an incredible number of galleries featuring ceramics, handmade leather goods, and vintage clothing. Rumi Gallery is one of my favorites.
a hidden bee
Floral shirts, denim overalls, and pajamas.
Just a few steps from Rumi Gallery, you’ll find this charming little shop of a Turkish brand.
to stay
Hotel Empress Zoe
Turkish design and balcony breakfasts in the heart of the city.
A beautiful hotel right in the center, with a terrace, trees, and interiors styled with Turkish design. Perfect for soaking in the atmosphere and walking to the Basilica Cistern.
The Loft Istanbul
A boutique hotel in the European side of the city with just a few rooms.
I prefer small hotels, away from the busy center. This one is just next to the Museum of Modern Art. How about breakfast at the museum café?
Hotel Ibrahim Pasha
A hidden gem in the city center — a small hotel with the vibe of a library.
I love places that feel like home. Here, the owners have really focused on creating that warmth. After a day full of impressions, even in a foreign country, you still want to feel a little bit at home.
a little bit more
It’s impossible to fit this city into just a few places. But I’ve made a small checklist — a personal collection of things and experiences you can find only here. Moments of joy that will make you want to come back again. Coming soon!
coming soon--download istanbul-checklist.pdf
